On the 26th of January I made the first ascent of 'Reap the Wild Wind' at John Wayne Memorial Crag, near Sennen in West Cornwall. I first visited the crag a couple of months earlier and spotted the route which follows a short arete. I was back a few weeks later and decided to top rope the route first as there wasn't many obvious gear placements and the landing was horrible. It turned out to be a little bit harder than I was expecting but I managed to do all the moves and work out the gear (one 0.4 Camalot). Despite this I bottled it and went and led one of the routes in the guide.
I returned a couple of weeks later to have another go on top rope and see how I got on. It felt harder and one of the crucial crimps was seeping. Whilst practising the moves on the crux my hand popped and I shot off the route head first. This really unnerved me as I knew that if this happened on the lead I would definitely hurt myself.
As it got towards the end of the day I knew I either had to just get it done or come back again and set up another top rope which I really didn't want to do. I decided to just go for it. The first few moves felt easy to the jug and then came the unprotected crux moves with the wet hold. I made it half way across and suddenly felt like I couldn't do it. The nerves took over and I began to reverse the crux, desperately trying to get back to the ground. My foot popped, I held it, I had made it back to safety.
I sat there for a few minutes contemplating the route. Was it my nerves that had got the better of me or was it too hard? I had to do it today. I wasn't coming back again. Camera rolling, spotters at the ready, off I went again. This time the crux felt good. I cut loose and made it to the big jug on the arete. Cam in and a quick shake before the final moves. I nearly blew it reaching for the next good hold. I recomposed myself on the jug and went again. I latched it. Last reach to the top and it's all over. Relief and joy all at once. I'd given myself a great adventure in just 7 metres of climbing.
Thanks to Martin, James, Noodles and Jake for the support.
Short clip to follow soon.
No comments:
Post a Comment